#500 sound, used, very fine with circular date stamp and duplex cancels. There are a lot of U. I’ve seen 499’s, 528’s and even 546’s listed as #500. In fact, if you look right now item. Is listed as one #500 and one #499–problem is they’re both type I (499). Has what is clearly a Type I listed as #500. Type Ia is not that difficult to sort out if you know what you’re doing, but I’ve seen so many misidentified that it is my own policy that I will never list a #500 without a certificate of authenticity. This one has been examined by both PSE and SIGCC and declared genuine in all respects with no faults. There is a very light pencil notation on the back not mentioned on either cert, which is not uncommon, but mentioned here for the utmost accuracy. For anyone who may be “on the fence” about the importance of expertization, I have taken the liberty of reproducing an article from the. If you take the time to read or even scan it, I think you will be shocked, as was. Those odds might be good for Vegas, but not, I suspect, for many philatelists. I should also point out, that the gentleman who wrote this. I’ve taken all the guesswork out of this one. Seems like a “no-brainer” to me. It also makes reselling the stamp a lot easier when the time comes. A Little About Me and My Commitment to You. I’ve been a regular member of the APS for over 40 years (member ID# 130461) and I’m still a collector more than anything. One thing that really troubles me are sellers who just. And I will give you the bad as well as the good, though I try not to sell stamps that have problems. Where applicable, I will also do my best to impart any useful information on the stamp and any pitfalls buyers should be aware of. For a sample of what you can expect. I recognize the expert opinions of APEX, William Crowe, the PF, PSAG and PSE.